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In June 1644 the Ming Dynasty
fell after ruling China for 276 years. So too ended the national strategy
of building long defensive structures (Great Wall) and thus the ramparts
were left to the ravages of nature, man and time.
Hardly had the Wall¡¯s towers
been vacated by their garrisoning men were wooden doors and window shutters
removed from towers.
Within a few years weeds were
sprouting up between its paving stones.
After a decade or so the wind
blown loess from the north had formed a thin soil, soon colonized by seeds
borne on the wind.
Shrubs and saplings grew,
their roots prizing the fill of the Wall apart. Deluges exploited the
channels, saturating the fill with moisture, rotting its mortar and freezing
in winter in the troughs it collected.
Foundation blocks were forced
out by freeze-thaw expansion.
Light tremors shook the structure
every few years. Stronger ones came centuries apart, the last in 1976,
epicentred on Tangshan, just south of the ramparts in eastern Hebei.
As the centuries passed the
forces of nature slowly reclaimed a building -- Great Wall -- and
changed it into wilderness Great Wall (Wild Wall), overgrown and crumbling,
telling the passage of time, each earthquake, each storm, each winter.
This was the species of Great
Wall I saw in 1987 as I trekked for 2,470km across northern China following
the route of the Ming Dynasty ramparts Wall. Yet when I talked about such
experiences in the wake of the 1989 publication of my book (Alone on the
Great Wall) in which I recounted my experiences, I realized that most
people imagined my journey to have been along the kind of Wall that was
typically chosen to illustrate guide books and encyclopaedias ¨C Great
Wall rebuilt for tourism. For this reason I felt the need to coin a new
term to capture the essence of the history I had hiked upon. Thus the
term ¡°Wild Wall¡± came into being.
| Exactly
a decade later, as I hiked up to a section of Great Wall about 100km
north of Beijing on December 31st 1999, I remember looking
up to the faint outlines of watchtowers silhouetted by starlight on
the ridge, and thinking how many turns of centuries the ancient sentinels
had witnessed. |
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| They had seen
the arrival of 1700, 1800 and 1900. Within half an hour of these thoughts
they would oversee the arrival of 2000¡ |
The Great Wall first attracted
my attention during early childhood --- circa 1968 -- when I became fascinated
by seeing its unique symbol on a map of China. Years later, the long-dormant
dream of one day exploring it came alive at Hadrian¡¯s Wall, the Roman-built
wall in the north of England. And so I conceived the ambitious idea of
making a journey on foot along the entire length of the structure. Since
that moment my life has been dominated by this wonder of the world: the
Great Wall brought me to China, has kept me there for fifteen years, and
will always keep me here, given the amount of research and conservation
work that needs to be done.
This is my personal website
and it summarizes my career to date on the Great Wall, provides some basic
knowledge gained from my experiences (now approaching 1,200 days on Great
Wall in various places), displays some of my photographs and recounts
some of the experiences and introduces the services that I now offer.
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